Global Green

A STARTER KITCHEN

TRIBUNE MEDIA. July 27, 2008. By Anne Willan

New Orleans -- Leaving downtown and the anonymous halls of a large conference hotel, I escape across the Mississippi to the other New Orleans, to the infamous Lower Ninth Ward, where the flooding from Hurricane Katrina struck at its most brutal. Many of the original residents have left. The roads are eerily quiet with few cars and scarcely a passerby; this could be deep countryside, green with the brilliant colors of spring. I am headed to a small experimental project nestled right below the levee bank that holds in check the treacherous, swirling river water, here up to 200 feet deep.

In the Holy Cross neighborhood in the heart of the Ninth Ward, Global Green USA and the Home Depot Foundation have recently celebrated the completion of the first green home as part of a low-cost housing project. This pilot three-bedroom house is already inhabited, and cheerful Mike Lopez gives me a tour. He points out how, with no trees in sight, the house is angled to catch minimum heat from the sun. Power is supplied by solar panels, with an energy monitoring system and energy-efficient appliances. But living is not totally Spartan. My eye is caught by my department: the kitchen, reassuringly equipped with an electric stove. But the countertop is empty and Mike smiles sheepishly. "I've been eating takeout," he says. "Haven't gotten around to pots and pans yet."

No problem. Within minutes, I'm planning a starter kitchen to suit seasoned cooks and novices alike, new brides and new homeowners. In keeping with Global Green's mission, I'm going for natural colors and materials. No plastics or bright reds or blues; colors should be white or beige. We'll have glass bowls, I tell Mike; spoons for stirring will be made of wood or sturdy stainless steel. I suggest chopping boards of ecologically friendly bamboo. Electric appliances can be kept to a minimum -- it's surprising how many tasks like slicing a few potatoes are just as quickly done by hand

This kitchen is planned for a couple or family of four people at maximum. It includes the traditional equipment they might need to cook simple meals and a few desserts such as pies and muffins. The collection is instantly recognizable -- indeed might have come from Grandma. Many of the items, such as bowls, draining spoons, colander, or pie pans, are inexpensive. However, a few good tools are important and worth paying for.

Below is a list of the kitchen tools I consider to be essential. The full list looks intimidating, but in fact I've deliberately left out many unnecessary items, since they only take up space. For example, a separate lid for each saucepan is superfluous, as adjustable pan lids are available that fit several sizes of pan. Another no-no is gadgets such as apple slicers, egg separators and garlic crushers; once you start, the list of space-fillers never stops. So stick to the essential such as a bottle opener for the beer and a corkscrew for the wine. Put them to use ... and relax!

EQUIPMENT FOR A STARTER KITCHEN

Chopping Boards:

Priority is a large cutting board so food does not fall off during chopping. The board itself should be thick and heavy enough to hold firm on the countertop, anchored underneath with a piece of damp paper towel.

Large, thick cutting board (preferably bamboo)
Small, round chopping board (pizza size)

Knives and cutlery:

The first significant kitchen investment should be a few good knives. All cooks have their favorites, and my preference is for high-carbon stainless blades that fit nicely when I balance them in my hand. I have a large chef's chopping knife, a medium one for more delicate jobs, and a small vegetable knife. Together with a serrated bread knife, that's it.

Large chef's knife
Medium chef's knife
Vegetable knife
Large serrated knife
Honing steel
Robust scissors
Two-pronged fork

Pots and pans:

When choosing saucepans, stainless steel is most practical. They should be heavy so the base heats evenly. If the base has an aluminum or copper sandwich to spread the heat, so much the better. Handles should be riveted for strength. Several sizes of saucepan are useful, the largest for boiling pasta. Personally, I can't do without a wok, the thin, cheap kind used by Asian cooks, but that's up to the cook.

6-inch saucepan
7- to 8-inch saucepan
8- to 9-inch saucepan
11- to 12-inch saucepan
Pasta pot
Adjustable lids (2)
Lasagna pan
10-inch Dutch oven
9-inch saute pan with lid
Chinese wok and wok stirrer

Frying Pans:

As for frying pans, here again a thick base is important. I like anodized aluminum or stainless steel with a non-stick surface. Beware of cheap, thin frying pans that will be scratched and worn within six months. And no American kitchen can be complete without a cast iron skillet. The longer you use it, the better it becomes. Just ask Grandma.

8-inch nonstick frying pan
10- to 11-inch nonstick frying pan
12-inch cast iron skillet

Baking Pans:

If you do much baking, you'll need a range of baking pans, a baking sheet, and possibly ramekins or custard cups. However, it's surprisingly possible to make do: a wine bottle takes the place of a rolling pin; the oven shelf doubles as a cooling rack; and many a time I've used a mug instead of a ladle.

Robust baking sheet
9- by 13-inch bar cookie pan
3/4-cup ramekins or custard cups (6)
9-inch pie pan
Standard size 12-muffin pan
8-inch springform pan
9-inch round layer cake pans (2)
9- by 9-inch metal brownie pan

Pastry equipment:

Pastry brush
Cooling rack
Rolling pin
Ice cream scoop
Melon baller
Oven thermometer

Bowls and strainers:

Set of Pyrex nesting mixing bowls
Colander
Small mesh strainer
Medium mesh strainer

Small Appliances:

Let's keep appliances to an electric toaster, an immersion (stick) blender for soups and purees, an inexpensive hand-held electric mixer for cakes, and a coffee maker for early morning caffeine.

Handheld immersion blender
Handheld mixer
Toaster
Coffee maker

Hand Tools:

Corkscrew
Bottle opener
Can opener
Basic microplane grater
Potato masher
Vegetable peeler

Cooking and stirring implements:

Whisk (sauce)
Fish spatula
Medium metal tongs
Perforated metal straining spoon
Medium wooden spoon (preferably bamboo)
Small wooden spoon (preferably bamboo)
Medium wooden spatula (preferably bamboo)
Medium metal ladle
Heatproof silicone spatulas (1 medium; 1 large)

Miscellaneous:

Small spice rack
Pepper grinder
Salad spinner
Dish drainer
Box grater
Citrus squeezer
Funnel
Kitchen timer

CHICKEN IN CHILI COCONUT SAUCE

Here's an ideal recipe to launch a starter kitchen. The amount of chili pepper you need depends very much on your taste and the strength of the pepper. Boiled rice is a good accompaniment.

3 shallots
2 garlic cloves
2 stalks of lemongrass
8 macadamia nuts or 16 blanched almonds
2 teaspoons turmeric
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground dried hot red chili pepper, more to taste
5 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
1 oven-ready chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 8 serving pieces
2 cups canned unsweetened coconut milk
Salt
 
1. Preheat oven to 375 F. Peel shallots and cut into chunks. Peel garlic cloves and cut in half. Trim lemongrass, discarding tough top and outer leaves, and cut into slices.

2. Using your immersion blender in a narrow container, puree shallots, garlic, lemongrass, nuts, turmeric, coriander, chili and half the oil. You may need to add several tablespoons of water to help grind the mixture to a paste. Alternatively, finely chop the shallots, garlic, lemongrass and nuts with a chef's knife, put them in a bowl and stir in the turmeric, coriander, chili and half the oil.

3. Heat remaining oil in saute pan or shallow flameproof casserole. Add vegetable-spice mixture and fry, stirring constantly, 1-2 minutes. Add chicken and cook 2-3 minutes, turning occasionally.

4. Stir in coconut milk and bring back to boil. Cover pan and cook in oven 40-50 minutes, until chicken pieces are very tender when pierced with a fork. Season sauce to taste. Serve directly from the casserole or transfer to a serving dish. Serves 4.

(Anne Willan's latest book, "Country Cooking of France" was published in fall 2007 by Chronicle Books. Learn more about Anne Willan and her books at ww.lavarenne.com)